Stories, how-to, and reviews from my personal tuner shop... my garage.

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Specs, history, pros/cons, and stories about my own 330i.

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Completed 10/26/2002


Install main supercharger bracket using spacers and bolts.

51. At this point, you will need to remove the upper radiator hose. Cut the ziptie holding the wire harness in place and use a screwdriver to release the clip (Photo RR). Using a cup or catch pan to catch the coolant, pull the hose off the engine. The other end of the hose is release from two clips (Photo SS - Blue Squares). You will not reuse this hose.

52. Assemble the supercharger bracket with bolts and spacers as illustrated (Photos TT & UU).

53. Slip the supercharger bracket down and over the alternator pulley. Bolt into place. If you have the EVOSPORT UNDERDRIVE PULLEYS like I do, you will need to grind the bracket's alternator hole a bit bigger (Photo VV).

54. Fasten both support brackets you installed earlier to the back of the supercharger bracket. The upper one (connected to the oil filter housing) attaches behind the upper idler pulley (Photo WW). The lower one bolts directly to the bracket (Photos XX & YY). Remember to tighten the anchor bolt for this lower bracket.

Reattach servo oil canister using suppled ESS bracket.

55. The new bracket should already be on the power steering fluid tank from Step 18. Using one of the two original bolts, attach the power steering reservoir back into place using the rear hole only. At this point, you can replace the lost power steering fluid as well with fresh fluid.

Cut the MAF connection cable about 4.5 inch from the connector and extend using included cable extension (do NOT use any other cable for this extension than the one supplied by us).

56. When you cut off the end of the MAF plug, you will notice it has 3 wires. Use the ESS-supplied extension to reconnect the plug to the wiring harness. ESS's extension has a resistor embedded in it to adjust the readings from the MAF to compensate for more airflow (Photo ZZ).

Install supercharger unit using top and bottom spacer, tighten firmly. Attach oil pressure line and oil return line. Make sure to adjust return hose angle to clear fender.

57. The supercharger is American-made so all bolts and fittings near it are SAE standard instead of metric. When fitting the supercharger to the support bracket, use the two tall cylindrical spacers and a 5/16" Allen Wrench at the top (Photo AAA) and the one underneath. You will be able to feel where the spacers need to be used.

58. The rest of the supercharger mounting bolts use a 3/8" Allen Wrench. Tighten the supercharger to the bracket (Photo BBB).

59. Use a 9/16" wrench to attach the oil supply line to the brass fitting on the top of the supercharger (Photo CCC). I recommend wrapping the threads in Teflon plumbing tape to make a good seal. I had a small leak here, the Teflon fixed it right up. Try not to overtighten this connection as it can crush the filter screen and strip the threads of the supercharger inlet adapter.

60. Attach the drain line to the supercharger with pre-attached hose clamp. Angle the hose so it won't rub on the fender (Photo DDD).

Install new ESS drive belt and factory AC belt. Adjust both idler pulleys to achieve proper clearances throughout the belt loop.

The new ESS belt is a 6-rib 84.55 inch belt (the stock belt is 60.5 inches). As with any change in belt length, I recommend purchasing an extra one at an Auto Parts Store just in case. Because of my underdrive pulleys, I had to go find a 86.0 inch belt to use and it works just fine.

61. Loop the new ESS belt over the water pump, under the upper idler pulley, around the supercharger, around the lower idler pulley, around the alternator, down around the power steering pump, over to the crank pulley, around the tensioner and back to the water pump. Sounds complicated maybe, but it will make sense (Photo EEE). Press down on the tensioner to get the belt on.

62. Replace the orignal A/C belt as well.

63. Using a 16mm wrench, adjust the cam angle of both idler pulleys until the supercharger belt is firm and taught. You may have to pull the belt off to adjust the pulleys. And trust me, the tensioner will give you a workout. The distance between the idlers on the supercharger bracket is very close on my install, leaving about 1/4" between the belts, but they don't make contact.

64. Once the belts are in place and adjusted, you can install the ESS-supplied upper radiator hose. It should just snap back into the location of the original hose. Snap all the clips down and re-ziptie the wiring harness in place if you choose (Photo FFF). Be sure to top off your coolant level.

Remove ECU and return to ESS programming center.

65. If you haven't removed the DME yet, see STEPS 1-3.

Some cars have a factory attachment bolt on the inner fender, if present cut off.

66. My330i had this bolt. Use a grinding wheel or hacksaw to remove it (Photo GGG).

Install intake and discharge tubing according to pictures. Check for clearances and adjust if necessary.

67. Run the K&N filter and tubing down into the bumper and attach the MAF to the open end (Photo HHH). The MAF has an arrow on it to indicate airflow direction. Obviously, it should point towards the engine.

68. While keeping force on the manifold breather tube (Photo III), attach it with the supplied angle adapter to the intake elbow (Photo JJJ).

69. Attach the intake tube to the supercharger inlet with the supplied hose clamp (Photo KKK).

70. Install the bypass valve into the discharge tube and install the tube, clamp securely (Photo LLL).

71. Insert the vacuum splitter back into the discharge tube (Photo MMM). These are the vacuum feeds for the brakes and the fuel regulator.

72. Install the intake tube and clamp into place. Attach the bypass valve. Also, attach the vacuum hose you routed around the back of the engine to the bypass valve nipple (Photo NNN).

If xenon lights are installed, unbolt xenon igniter module and install supplied bracket. Drill hole in aluminum bumper bracket and and install xenon igniter module.

73. I did not do this step. My xenon igniter remains about where my air filter box was. I looked down to where the bracket was supposed to attach and chose to leave the igniter accessible. I will fashion a mounting plate for it using the original filter box bolt locations. It is not as pretty, but I didn't want the igniter to be in a location where it could possibly get wet.

74. If you choose to use the bracket, remove the igniter from the headlamp with a screwdriver. Make a small hole with a drill into the aluminum bumper support and mount the ESS-supplied bracket there with it's supplied hardware. Mount the igniter to the bracket.

Remove insulation and run xenon igniter cable to the new module location, use insulation tape and insulate wires in their new location.

75. You can strip the insulation tape off the headlamp wiring to give it more range of movement. Run the wiring for the igniter down to the module and connect it. Tape up the exposed wires to protect them.

Reinstall headlight and check installation for clearance, bolt torque and leaks.

76. Install the headlight assembly and turn signal, reattach all headlight wiring. Reconnect the MAF sensor.

77. I chose to put wire loom on all exposed wiring to clean everything up.

78. You can take this time to recheck all of your connections and bolts being tight.

Reinstall reprogrammed ECU and start car, idle for 15 minutes while checking clearances and leaks. Drive the car soft for the first 100 miles (160km). Always use 91 or higher octane fuel (97 or higher in Europe).

79. When you get the DME back, install it back into the car and reconnect all plugs. Close and bolt down the "E-box" cover.

80. At the time I installed this system, ESS was sending out version (1.03) of software that requires you to have BMW "re-align" the EWS (security system) to the new DME. This could only be done by someone (your BMW dealership) who has a MoDiC, GT1, or DIS system. It only took a few seconds to do, but most likely will require the car being towed to that location. My330i was flat-bedded to my BMW dealership to have it done. Last time I checked, ESS is up to version 1.09+ which NO LONGER requires this realignment by BMW. The car should start immediately upon kit installation completion.

Anyhow, after a few minutes on the GT1, my330i started right up on the first try. Take it easy for the first hundred or so miles as the Vortech needs to break-in. The car will get faster over the next few hundred miles as the software adapts to the supercharger system. After the 100 miles, go back under the hood and make sure everything is still tight and no leaks!

Be sure to always use 91+ octane gasoline! The supercharger demands it. Anything less will cause the engine to retard the timing and create less power and could cause detonation, which is bad, bad, bad...

That's it! The final product can be seen in Photo OOO.


Photo RR

Photo SS

Photo TT

Photo UU

Photo VV

Photo WW

Photo XX

Photo YY

Photo ZZ

Photo AAA

Photo BBB

Photo CCC

Photo DDD

Photo EEE

Photo FFF

Photo GGG

Photo HHH

Photo III

Photo JJJ

Photo KKK

Photo LLL

Photo MMM

Photo NNN

Photo OOO


A full page review is available HERE or by accessing it in the GARAGE page.

  © MarvelPhx